1929 by Guillaume Galliot: A Culinary Gem in Shanghai’s Historic Jin Jiang Hotel
Creating a dialogue between the storied past of the Jin Jiang Hotel and the contemporary culinary landscape of Shanghai
November 18, 2023
Behold the humble sandwich – a universally beloved and accepted meal that exists in some shape or form in nearly every country on the planet.
Stuff anything inside the loosest definition of bread, and tell us it doesn’t cure a craving.
Tocks' Reuben
From Mexico’s torta ahogada and the Middle East’s shawarma to Vietnam’s banh mi and Uruguay’s chivito, from Japan’s katsu sando and Argentina’s choripan to New Orleans’ po’ boy and Denmark’s smørrebrød, the list could go on indefinitely.
Highline's Club
Which leaves us with the tough philosophical question – the one that keeps us up late at night pondering – “What is a sandwich?”
Le Daily' Eat Your Greens
The omniscient Google defines a sandwich as, “an item of food consisting of two pieces of bread with meat, cheese, or other filling between them, eaten as a light meal.”
Clearly, Google doesn’t understand that – according to Xinhua News – Shanghai has over 100,000 restaurants, roughly 12,000 of which relate to foreign cuisine
Roodoodoo's Philly Cheesesteak
And that, of those 12,000 restaurants, we are going to make an uneducated guess that at least half of them serve one or more sandwiches that fits that definition... thus condemning us to sandwich eating for the rest of our days.
Some real intense back-of-the-napkin math went into this, but objectively, it’s just too many sandwiches – so, suffice to say, this is not an exhaustive list.
Totino Panino's The Wolf I
The Rooster's Chicken, Bacon, Ranch
Kaisha's Chicken Katsu
For the sake of our sanity, we’ve established some overtly arbitrary ground rules to narrow the list so we don’t die of some obesity-related illness before publication.
You can choose to debate them or – as we prefer it – blindly accept them in good faith as our loyal sandwich munching disciples.
First, no open-face sandwiches.
No 'pastry' sandwiches, only bread. What is a pastry? Well, that’s an entirely separate article. But for this article’s sake, a pastry is a croissant, scone, bagel or bing (sorry roujiamo).
Nothing wrapped. No tortillas, pitas, or – duh – wraps. And, no buns. This is the most controversial and gets us into the contested space of what is a burger. Which, we’ve loosely defined here.
READ MORE: 17 Not Your Everyday Shanghai Burgers
While some of these rules may clash with the philosophies of esteemed sandwichtarians, just know, it’s fully subjective, and the only real rule is that we make the rules.
You’re welcome.
. Per Rule 2, this sandwich from Crave Café doesn't count as a "sandwich," so this photo merely illustrates that in a beautifully mouth-watering way
Le Daily's Shanghai Reuben
Alimentari nails it at positioning itself in that sweet spot between casual drinking, European-style snacking and friendly chilling at any time of the day or night.
As a mainstay when it comes to European comfort food, it’s no surprise that their Truffled Croque Monsieur (RMB65) – layers of salty Praga ham cushioned between a melted mass of fontina cheese and creamy béchamel – hits the highest of brunch notes.
The hint of musky garlic from the truffle kicks this panini-like sandwich up a notch, available at Alimentari Grande, Alimentari Mulino and Alimentari Emporio locations.
And if its other kinds of sandwiches and paninis you're after, each Alimentari location has its own variety for finding your favorite combo.
Alimentari, 343 Jiaozhou Lu, by Wuding Lu, 胶州路343号, 近武定路.
Chef Lucky Lasagna’s neighborhood trattoria, Bambino continues to wow us time and again, with each new dish being more delizioso than the last.
Case in point, the new revamped paninis. A remake of the already beloved Gino Panino (RMB98) – the pride of Italian paninis – sees piquant Nduja sausage topped with cured Coppa ham, rocket, eggplant pickles and stracciatella – pulled shreds of mozzarella soaked in heavy cream, the choicest part of the 'Queen of Italian Cheeses.'
But the upgrade comes in the form of pizza bianca bread, as it’s called in Rome. Similar to Florentine schiacciata, it's a thinner focaccia made with potato for added fluff, and malt powder for a shatteringly crisp crust.
Bambino, 600 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Xinzha Lu 陕西北路600号, 近新闸路.
Since opening nearly two-and-a-half years ago, modern French wine bistro Blaz has gone from busy to busier, a testament to the thoughtful menu designed by Chef Chris Zhu, the curated wine list by Simon Briens and the warm, welcoming atmosphere, accented by twinkling string lights on the all-day terrace.
A menu mainstay since opening, pure gluttony comes in the form of the Croque Madame (RMB128), a brick of a sando with alternating layers of Parisian ham, cheese and truffle béchamel, all hugged between too airily light pieces of toasted bread.
Compared to most others on the list, the portion size is no joke, so make sure to bring a friend or prepare to unbutton your pants in public.
Note: The croque madame is now only on offer for lunch, quite possibly because you'll require the rest of the day to digest.
Blaz, 20 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Lu, 东湖路20号, 近淮海路.
Chef Conrad Van Den Heever (previously of Highline, Dentree, The Nest, Bloom, Anchor & Clover Club) has opened his very own first self-made restaurant, La Brise 523 in Sinan Mansions.
The concept is a firepit-roasted proteins bistro with a modern Southeast Asian flavor-leaning menu. The kitchen sports its own firepit, where anything that can be grilled is roasted over open woodfire flames, tendrils of curling smoke adding a campfire aroma to the entire vicinity.
READ MORE: Chef Conrad Van Den Heever Fires Things Up at La Brise 523
The Reuben Sandwich You Won’t Forget (RMB88) earns its name with thickly-sliced 48-hour braised M7 Wagyu chuck at the foreground that's been slowly smoked over lychee wood and bamboo charcoal, resulting in a 'Reuben-meets-steak-sandwich' of sorts – a detail we're definitely not mad about.
A shmear of basil mustard is found on the bottom slice of toasted sourdough while a dollop of homemade thousand island is – you guessed it – on the top, coupled with pickled onions, fermented purple sauerkraut, gooey Emmental cheese, and house pickles.
Do note that this Reuben can only be found on La Brise 523's brunch menu, so plan your weekends accordingly.
La Brise 523, #4-6, 523 Fuxing Lu, by Sinan Lu, 复兴路523弄4-6号, 近思南路.
Shanghai’s most successful all-in-one live sports bar, Cages expanded to second location at One East at the beginning of 2022. It's the same Cages vibes you know and love, just in a smaller space.
(And by ‘smaller,’ we still mean seating for around 400 spread across 1,500 square meters.)
Our go-to fix for elevated American pub grub cravings, the food is just as solid as before, with a lot of the favorites from Cages’ original location plus some newbies.
Like a handheld version of a Jimmy John’s Italian Night Club, the Italian Torpedos (RMB68) are layered with ham, pepperoni, capicola, lettuce, tomatoes, olives, Dijonnaise and cheese, all nestled inside a plush roll.
Served cold and oh-so-crushable, it's the basic, classic combo of cold cuts, cheese, and the fixings we crave, delivered tableside with a dose of nostalgia.
Cages (One East), B1, 788 Zhongshan Nan Yi Lu, by Nanbei Gaojia, 黄浦区中山南一路788号B1-18.
Followers of Stone Brewing and fellow craft beer lovers alike flock to Commune Reserve along Yuyuan Lu for more than just their extensive 30 beer tap list; the menu is an eclectic list of global comfort food favorites – chicken wings, sticky ribs, pasta dishes, sandwiches and burgers.
Bites that pair well with – shocker – a frothy mug of the good stuff.
Namely, the Oxtail Grilled Cheese (RMB98) – dripping with both Mahon Menorca Tierno cheese and French brie, slow-braised beef oxtail, fiery jalapeños and balsamic onion jam on toasted marbled sourdough-rye.
A superlative interpretation of just how far a grilled cheese can go, that goes down even better with a refreshing IPA.
Commune Reserve, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, by Fenggang Lu 愚园路1107号, 近凤冈路.
Sustainability pervades every aspect of cocktail bar Dentree.
It is a planet-conscious powerhouse of a venue that brings together: Rémy Cointreau – an alcohol brand that helps lead the world globally in sustainable practices; Hope & Sesame – one of China’s premier cocktail teams that regularly secures a spot on lists like Asia’s 50 Best Bars and the like for their inventive use of ingredients and techniques to create memorable libations; and Oha Design – fitting out the space with sustainably-focused décor.
It’s Captain Planet’s all-star team.
In addition to an overtly inventive cocktail menu, there are some equally out-there bar bites, designed by chef Conrad Van Den Heever (see La Brise 523, above), who was formerly of the Muse Group, and followed the philosophy: “If it’s something that others might throw away, we want to feature it on our menu.”
The most substantial of the lot, the Beef Tongue & Cheese Sarnie (RMB88) is a play on the classic Reuben, with week-long brined beef tongue, 30-day fermented sauerkraut, a Rémy Martin cognac and onion jam, and smoked cheddar – all stacked on toasted sourdough.
It's a 10/10 sandwich with deli fixings as reliable as Venus William’s backhand.
Dentree, Anken Air, #1, 465 Zhenning Lu, by Xinzha Lu 镇宁路465弄1号楼, 近新闸路
It's that man again Conrad Van Den Heever (seriously, he deserves a Magnolia Award for Services to Shanghai Sandwiches).
This time we're at Highline, where the man of the hour's menu draws inspiration from the Sunshine State coupled with his South African roots.
With a name like the Best Reuben Sandwich (RMB98), we had no choice but to verify that statement ourselves.
The bulk of the sando is some righteous 48-hour braised brisket, shredded to match the texture of the homemade sauerkraut.
(And this, my friends, is the sleeper ingredient key to the optimal Reuben – a near 50/50 matchup of meat to kraut to cut through the brisket's fatty layers.)
Gooey Gruyère makes a showing, alongside a liberal lashing of mustard aioli with that ideal nip of – unexpected but very much appreciated – heat.
The sandwich itself is wholly stuffed – but not exploding nor imploding – and the rye toast holds up instead of just disintegrating under the weight of the sauce.
Is it Shanghai's best Reuben?
Well it is now up against the above featured Conrad Van Den Heever The Reuben Sandwich You Won’t Forget at La Brise 523... and that's before we get onto all the other Reubens around town.
So we can't make that call just yet, but this hero is surely giving us the necessary motivation to do so.
Highline, 6/F, 282 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu, 淮海中路282号6楼, 近黄陂南路.
Chef Carlos Sotomayer (previously of elEfante and UP Shanghai) is the man behind the menu at owner Justin Xu’s High Yaki The Sea – a blend of Western cooking techniques with splashes of Japanese, Thai and Southeast Asian flavors.
As part of the Nihon Brunch menu – a playful Japanese-inspired lineup of dishes using common brunch ingredients (eggs, avocado, and the like) – there are two Japanese convenience store-inspired sammies, one sweet (strawberries and cream), and one savory...
Take a Tokyo 7-11 egg salad sandwich, make it gourmet, and you get the Tamago Sando (RMB68). Pillowy clouds of Japanese milk bread are stuffed to the brim with egg salad tossed in smoked chili mayonnaise.
Juxtaposing the welcome addition of crunchy potato chips, a perfectly runny, six-minute soft-boiled egg sits in the middle, glowing with that sunshine orange, jammy yolk.
It oozes under even the slightest pressure, leaving a glossy, unctuous coating across the roof of your mouth.
High Yaki The Sea, #113, Bldg 5, 8 Hengshan Lu, by Wulumuqi Lu, 衡山路8号锦和越界5号楼113单元, 近乌鲁木齐路.
Shanghai’s favorite international global entertainment company plates up more than just your average pub fare; Lounge by Topgolf provides an elevated alternative with an Asian twist – thoughtful fusion that ties in local flavors, making for a meal more interesting than your standard burger and fries.
Yet it is the Western lunch options that we're here for, priced at RMB68 a pop (including a daily starter and a drink): a Wagyu Cheeseburger; a Truffle Mushroom Pizza; and a Reuben Sandwich with French fries, to name but a few.
The Reuben sees 5-spiced beef layered with sauerkraut and a slice of cheddar on rye. Our only gripe is a lack of Russian dressing, or any sauce for that matter, a zippy necessity to bring it all together.
Lounge by Topgolf, 2/F, Central Plaza, 227 Huangpi Bei Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu 黄陂北路227号中区广场2楼,近南京西路.
After stepping into the NYC Deli storefront on Fujian Lu, we were ready to throw some serious shade; the décor… leaves something to be desired. Like it hasn’t been updated since opening way back in 2007.
So we (wrongfully) assumed the sandwiches would be the same, representing a time in Shanghai’s not-so-distant past when the bar for 'reasonable' Western fare was a much easier hurdle to jump over.
There's more than a dozen sammies to choose between, from Philly Cheesesteak to Pulled Pork, from Tuna Melt to Egg Salad with Grilled Cheese.
But we came for their most ordered Pastrami Reuben (RMB48/100 grams of meat, RMB60/160 grams of meat).
Let’s begin with the Russian dressing. Unorthodox, we know – but a highlight that shouldn’t be overlooked.
Boasting the perfect tang when compared to other über mayo-y iterations of dressings around town, NYC Deli’s Russian dressing is tops.
We welcome the borderline excessive portion too, as it oozes through the toasted rye’s nooks and crannies.
Similarly, the kraut nails it in sour punch, crunch, and quantity.
The pastrami showcases a peppercorn-forward brined spice, one that sets the groundwork for an archetypal Reuben, but the unrendered fat is where it all starts to go downhill; the inconsistently cooked meat ranges from barely edible to juicily tender, a game of Russian roulette we don’t really feel like playing between lunch bites.
However, in a binary world, we are still awarding this sandwich a one (rather than a zero). All the promise is there – we possibly just came on an off day for meat texture.
It wouldn’t be hard to convince us to swing through for a repeat visit… purely for taste testing puposes, of course.
NYC Deli, 100 Yejiazhai Lu, by Changshou Lu, 叶家宅路100号, 近长寿路.
NYC Deli, 209 Fujian Zhong Lu, by Hankou Lu, 福建中路209号, 近汉口路.
Ôdelice has been doling out French bistro fare along Shanghai’s tree-lined, leafy green Xinle Lu since 2013.
Backed by restaurateur Alin Zhu, Ôdelice currently has five branches in Hong Kong – a testament to the brand success.
The Stewed Beef Cheek Sandwich (RMB108) is a must-order, replete with a generous heaping of red-wine and onion-braised shredded beef that’s been simmering in its own juices for three hours.
Melted mozzarella, pickles, tomato, butter lettuce, sliced avocado and a nip of heat from chipotle make for one stacked sando.
Bonus: The sandwich arrives tableside with some righteous parmesan fries. Score.
Ôdelice, 208 Xinle Lu, by Donghu Lu, 新乐路208号, 近东湖路.
Despite it's mini size (there are only four counter seats!), Paopao Deli has garnered quite the following since opening less than a year ago, a huge part owed to its top-selling Jumbo Prime Rib Sandwich (RMB76), slathered in a mala spicy peanut sauce.
Slow-cooked for hours, the juicy meat slinks off the dinosaur-sized bone, on which the sandwich nonchalantly rests, showing how cleanly the meat has shirked away.
Nestled between two panini-pressed pieces of what Paopao Deli calls focaccia (agree to disagree, move on...), the meat is piled high above a crunchy slaw, living up to its 'jumbo' name.
While we found ourselves instantly addicted to the smarmy peanut butter lover's gravy, that is only further augmented by the fatty layers of beef, our only gripe is with the bread (we were lying about moving on...).
The in-house made 'focaccia' is airy and yeasty, yet softens immediately from the heat of the meat, making it hard to hold onto.
A more structurally sound loaf, like the toasted sourdough offered on other sandwiches, may be a better vessel.
Do note, the shop stops selling sandwiches daily at 5pm, so make sure to swing by for a filling lunch or a cheeky (and substantial) snack.
Paopao Deli, 192 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, by Wuyuan Lu, 乌鲁木齐中路192号近五原路.
After taking over the old Bubba’s haunt round the back in Shankang Li, Matty Waters (of Smoke KCQ, and menu design for The Hai, The Smokehouse x The Camel) reopened as Parlay, with an entirely revamped look, concept, and menu.
It is basically bringing together the best aspects of the old Camel (RIP) and Bubba’s into one meat-centric mecca for all things BBQ, sports and ‘Murica.
A play on, and inspired by one of Matty’s guilty pleasures at the famous Gates BBQ in Kansas City, the Double G Combo Sandwich (RMB98) is a behemoth, layered with thick chunks of USDA smoked brisket, house-cured sweet and smoky ham, pickles, bourbon butter onions, zippy horseradish Dijonnaise (reminiscent of Arby’s horsey sauce – if you know, you know), and a boatload of KCQ BBQ sauce.
Piled between three pieces of toasted white bread, this one requires you to unhinge your jaw just to take it all in.
Parlay, Shankang Li, 808 Shaanxi Bei Lu, Bld 18, #103 陕西北路808号陕康里18幢103室.
Shanghai institution Scarpetta expanded further afield to the North Bund area with its sister restaurant, Pizzeria S, in 2021.
The boutique venue, in the style of Southern Italian island Capri with a hint of Japanese influence, has recently launched an incredible lineup of Italian paninis, inspired by famed sandwich shop All’Antico Vinaio in Florence.
What makes these coveted sandwiches so droolworthy?
It comes down to the basics, beginning with homemade schiacciata bread followed by high quality ingredients and perfect pairings.
Living up to its name, La Godfather (RMB128) is one stacked sando, with stratum of salami, mortadella and seared sausage – enough to put hair on the OG Godfather Marlon Brando’s chest.
Zippy sundried-tomato, marinated artichoke and pickled pepper offer a necessary punch to cut through the layers of spice and fat, while peppery arugula, soft ricotta and spicy shallot vinaigrette round out this meaty monstrosity.
Pizzeria S, #101, Building 2, 18 Gongping Lu, by Haiping Lu, 公平路18号2栋101室,近海平路.
Michelin-chef Paul Pairet’s (Ultraviolet, Mr & Mrs Bund) Xintiandi venture Polux serves pared-down French bites, his answer to a casual French café – the more approachable, everyday version of Mr & Mrs Bund.
Keeping consistent with the main pillar of the menu – French comfort eats – Polux's Croque Monsieur (RMB110) or Croque Madame (RMB110) is a souped-up version that sports two kinds of ham (Paris white and serrano) and three kinds of cheese (raclette, parmesan and mozzarella) for the ultimate croque indulgence.
The Madame sees the addition of an 80-degree sous vide egg for that extra hit of artery clogging goodness. Cut through the fat with the bright vinaigrette-coated butter lettuce served on the side.
Polux, No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu, 新天地太仓路181弄5号, 近黄陂南路.
Shanghai mainstay and neighborhood hangout, The Rooster relocated at the beginning of this year to the old sister-venue Perch's digs on Jiangning Lu.
But, have no fear – all of the insanely good deals (and good vibes) remain at this community-loved bar.
Available on both the weekday regular and weekend brunch menu, the Chicken Bacon Ranch (RMB55) is American diner comfort food at its finest – a hefty gram-to-kuai ratio that delivers on both taste and value.
Toasted farmer's bread encases grilled chicken breast, crisp bacon, homemade tangy ranch, and tomatoes – all held together by thick globules of mozzarella cheese.
The joy of that first crunchy bite – one that results in a shmear of ranch across your cheek, a crumble of bacon down your chin, a dribble of tomato juice on your shirt – is unmatched anywhere else in the city.
And if that wasn't enough, The Rooster also sports some other noteworthy sammies... more specifically, the best Tuna Melt (RMB55) Shanghai has to offer.
Yes, we said it without hesitation.
Creamy tuna salad with just the right pop of relish is dolloped atop that same farmer's bread, sheathed by even more of that melty mozz, studded with chopped bits of homemade pickle for extra zing.
It's not fancy.
Nor elegant.
Just downright delicious.
The Rooster, Room 107, 445 Jiangning Lu, by Wuding Lu 江宁路445号107室, 近武定路.
One of Shanghai's newest additions to the sando lineup is Chicago-inspired Rozebiff on Shanxi Bei Lu, backed by Chicago-raised Jimmy Shi and partner Edison Liang (ex-Da Vittorio Sous Chef and Chef de Partie, respectively).
Here, they crank out Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, a sacrosanct entity in the eyes of every Chicagoan, and the eponymous sandwich of said establishment.
The iconic Chicago Style Italian Beef (RMB56) – Rozebiff’s signature sarnie – sees beef bones simmered for 12 hours to make the broth that will eventually become the base of the jus.
Wagyu beef is concurrently being marinated in a proprietary blend of Italian spices overnight, and is seared then cooked to order in said broth to a tender medium rare.
A six-inch bun is piled high with 120 grams worth of the jus-soaked beef (more on that jus later – keep it in your pants), smothered in a don’t-even-think-about-touching-your-eyes-afterward giardiniera – an Italian relish of vinegar-pickled veggies belovedly adopted by Chicagoans for its pop of acidity that tempers out all that fat-ribbed meatiness.
What comes next is most important, the critical factor for determining the level of authenticity for any Italian beef – the dunk. Italian beef in Chicago will either be dribbled, dunked or baptized (aka fully submerged) in jus, immediately rendering the paper wrapper transparent.
To avoid offense to those lacking Chicago culinary prowess, Shi is currently offering the jus on the side, rather than handing people a sopping sammy. But for those in the know, ask for the dunk, and you shall receive that bona fide Chicago experience.
The upper edge retains a crumbly crust, while the bottom half soaks up the steaming jus like a sponge, unleashing a bouquet of aromatic herbs with every sodden swallow – a bite Chicago natives would be proud of.
Rozebiff, 549-5 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Xinzha Lu, 陕西北路549-5号, 近新闸路.
A mainstay in the Vietnamese food scene in Shanghai, Saigon Mama has seven locations around town, serving up classic pan-Viet cuisine, like pho, bun thit nuong, spring rolls, minced chicken salad, and – the reason we are here – banh mi.
There are four to select from – Grilled Chicken (RMB55), Grilled Pork (RMB55), Saigon Combo (RMB58), and Beef Banh Mi (RMB58) – each served with a rich spread of housemade pork pâté plus pickled carrots, daikon and cucumber, and fresh cilantro.
Ideal for scratching that Vietnamese food craving itch, it's a fantastic value sandwich that still ticks all the boxes and then some.
Fresh, crispy baguette?
Check.
A thick dollop of pork pâté?
Check.
Loads of julienned and pickled veggies topped with fresh herbs?
Check.
Thinly sliced, slightly sweet and tender barbecued pork?
Check.
Banh mi success.
Saigon Mama, 1/F, Shanghai Centre, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu, 南京西路1376号上海商城1层, 近西康路.
If it’s a greasy burger and fries you’re after on Maoming Lu, that ship sailed with the closing of White Castle, on whose grave Shanghai Love rose from the ashes (ok fine, it just took over White Castle's old lease...)
But!
As an ode to the fast food chain, the Shanghai Love menu bestows on us a decked out alternative – one that sits at the unexpected cross section of indulgent and trashy, sandwich and burger – the Shanghai Love Signature Steak Sando (RMB108) (previously known as the Ode to White Castle).
One hundred grams of two-fingers-thick tenderloin is breaded and fried katsu-style, slathered in a tamarind glaze, flanked by mayo-y cabbage slaw, and nestled inside plush Japanese milk toast.
It's excess at its finest, a worthy accolade to sandwiches of the world.
Shanghai Love, 221 Maoming Bei Lu, by Weihai Lu 茂名北路221号, 近威海路.
Named after the 2004 Blockbuster hit Sideways, Sideways by Cellar to Table shares the same deep-rooted affinity for wine as the main character, sans the tragedy. Hence, the menu by Chilean Chef Francisco Javier Araya is straightforward comfort food with a strong emphasis on wine exploration.
And, while coupling boutique vintage wines with stacked burgers dripping with grease, gooey cheese and smarmy sauce may seem at odds with one another, the pairing of the two embodies the film’s takeaway, as well as the ethos of the restaurant – it is not about the caliber of the winery, the exact vintage nor the cost of the bottle.
Instead, it should be about the moment in which it’s experienced – the people you’re with, the delicious food you’re eating (regardless of extravagance level), and the joy you feel while drinking that wine.
Definitely not a burger, but just as deserving of a wine pairing, the Spicy Chick (RMB80) is a glorified fried chicken sandwich deserving of only the highest of praises.
Featuring breaded chicken thigh – seasoned with cayenne, thyme and oregano – tomato, lettuce and a fiery secret sauce on plush, homemade ciabatta, the spicy heat is tempered by the suggested wine pairing, a dry Sybille Kunt’s Riesling Spätlese (RMB115).
Sideways by Cellar to Table, e103, 1/F, 111 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Tiantong Lu, 山西北路111号L层e103室, 近天潼路.
An ode to the American backyard BBQ – but with Chinese nuances – Smokey Project opened in the old Fan Tang food court space on Yanping Lu a few months ago, serving up a roster of slow-roasted brisket, ribs, BBQ sides and the like.
For now, the mains are all US Choice Beef – ribs, brisket, and pulled beef – in multi-consumable forms.
Said meat can be found between two buns as a sandwich, topped on a burger, rolled into a taco, plated atop a veg salad or rice bowl, or – most traditionally – served straight up on a beef-laden platter, borderline still moo-ing.
If massive meat plates don’t fit into your midday plans (not all of us have the luxury of taking an afternoon nap) there are smaller, 'breadier' options like the Smokey Pulled Beef Sandwich (RMB38).
Leaner cuts from the chest are used for this one, marinated for 24 hours then roasted for 16 in an Alto-Shaam Combi oven.
The shreds are stuffed between two plush pieces of Texas Toast-like bread, with greens, red chilis, Smokey Mayo and Smokey Cocktail Sauce.
Smokey Project, 98A Yanping Lu, by Xinzha Lu, 延平路98A号, 近新闸路.
Shanghai veteran of such high-end Shanghai institutions as David Laris’ Three on the Bund restaurant Laris, Fifty 8º Grill at the Mandarin Oriental, and Coquille & Scarpetta, Chef Jason Oakley made the jump this year from being a partner and chef at Cages to flying solo with his own dream project – Sub Standard.
A humble sandwich and pizza shop, Sub Standard is reminiscent of the neighborhood sandwich storefronts that dot every corner of San Francisco – near where Oakley worked as chef de partie at three Michelin star French Laundry, before hopping across the pond to Shanghai almost a lifetime ago.
Oakley has traded in his chef’s coat for oven mitts, “so I can cook what I love and want to eat, when I want it.”
Like a reinvented version of a Jimmy John’s Italian Night Club, the top-selling Italian (RMB58) is a straightforward stack of Prague ham, salami, pepperoni, capicola, mozzarella, peppers, vinaigrette and mayo.
Served cold and oh-so-crushable, it's the basic, classic combo of no frills meat, cheese, and a whole lot of it – the fixings we fancy, delivered tableside (or to your doorstep, if you so choose) with a dose of nostalgia.
The sandos, on the whole, embody the ethos of Sub Standard – unelaborate, no-frills, a shining example of minimalism.
Sub Standard, 230 Wanhangdu Lu, by Xinzha Lu 万航渡路230号,近新闸路.
O'Mills has a cult following in this city for their bakery items and health-focused (without sacrificing flavor) all day brunch menu.
All of which led to the opening of their fifth location, Toasty by O'Mills, this past winter on Yanping Lu. And for good reason, because – in short – their breads, pastries and cakes slap.
Objectively.
One of the city's top notch bakeries.
Ok, now that we are done fan-girling, let's get onto the sandwiches, of which there are both hot (toasted paninis) and cold (fresh-baked assorted bread) varieties.
For these scorching summer days, we suggest the Focaccia Sandwich with Prosciutto (RMB78) – Spanish prosciutto and spongy buffalo mozzarella accented by sliced tomato, arugula, cucumber and an herbaceous pesto enveloped in a plush olive focaccia.
The baked-fresh-daily focaccia is pleasantly chewy, light from ample air pocket holes, yet still boasts that caramelized, crusty crunch.
Bonus: Even the most sweltering of days couldn't put us off from the Super Beef Panini (RMB58/half, RMB98/whole) – a duo of slow-cooked and roasted beef, provolone cheese that pulls in stretchy strands, kale, peppers and sweet pickles pressed between sourdough country bread.
Said bread is worth it alone, made with 72-hour fermented wild yeast sourced from London for maximum digestibility, flavor and fluff.
Toasty by O'Mills, #105, 135 Yanping Lu by Wuding Lu,延平路135号105室, 近武定路.
Tock's is a Shanghai institution. Shanghai's original Montreal-style deli opened more than a decade ago, and was the place all expats went to get sandwiches long before they were spoiled with so many choices.
Before Tocks if you wanted a sandwich that both looks and tasted like one from home, you'd better make it yourself, sourcing insanely rare finds like *gasp* prosciutto and imported cheddar.
You got lucky when a friend smuggled some back in their suitcase.
It was the dark ages, folks.
Today, we are drowning in sandwich options, but Tock's Reuben (RMB88/small, RMB108/large) still holds a special place in our hearts.
Choose your meat – from the leanest crimson cut to an all-fat version guaranteed to clog your arteries – piled high with kraut, two pieces of provolone and three pieces of bread, slick with Russian dressing.
The Aussie AAA grade beef is prepared in the Montreal tradition, meaning it’s lovingly salt-cured for 12 days, smoked, and then steamed for hours so that even the toughest cut is broken down and melts between your incisors.
Slim russet fries and spears of herbed pickles add a crispy backdrop, while vinegary coleslaw proves mayo is optional to make the picnic side a winner.
It's no Katz's Deli in NYC, and yes, the bread-to-meat ratio with the trio of slices is a bit off (just take out the damn middle piece, who needs it?) – but it's a sandwich that has, justifiably, stood the test of time.
Tock's, 281 Maoming Lu, by Wujiang Lu, 茂名路 281号, 近吴江路.
After opening four years ago with an 18-panini deep menu of mostly traditional Italian sandwich combinations – think one meat, one cheese, one veg – the modest family-owned, 20-seater Totino Panino has now expanded to over 38 sandwich choices to meet the growing tastes of their equally expanding fan base.
As the brainchild of owner Toto Giammaria and consulting chef Lucky Lasagna, the majority of the paninis involve stereotypical Italian sandwich fixings – proscuitto, mortadella, salami, provolone, gorgonzola, artichoke, sundried tomatoes and the like – atop a slightly toasted (but not pressed, to maintain Italian tradition) 120-gram ciabbata bread made specifically for the restaurant with less cushion and more crunch.
"It's really the bread that brings many of our customers back," says Giammaria. "A reason we haven't changed the recipe since opening."
That said, the exception comes with some of the more recent offerings, the "bastardized affairs," like The Wolf 1 (RMB95), named after a lunchtime regular.
This monstrosity clocks in at a whopping 650 grams (whereas most other paninis are 300 grams) with three layers of pistachio-studded mortadella, three layers of provolone, and four layers of tomato, arugula, jalapeńos and pickles.
But that's just what we chose on this particular visit, and we refuse to deign a suggestion of the 'best' since you truly can't go wrong.
As one of Shanghai's only shops that exclusively sells sandwiches, this is a must-visit destination for anyone who is still reading this far into the article.
Totino Panino, 231 Changshu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu, 常熟路231号, 近淮海中路.
The pizza loving community suffered a big blow at the end of October when Shanghai’s favorite tavern-style pizza joint Zup Pizza Bar unexpectedly closed. Thankfully, a year later, and it's back, baby!
The creation of Chicago born and raised Wayne Hou and partner Lee Tseng (Liquid Laundry, Boxing Cat) quickly solidified its position as a Shanghai institution in the minds and hearts of all who ate there.
And, while pizza is the name of the game, the appetizers, sandwiches, brunch, burgers and desserts are definitely no afterthought.
Arguably Shanghai's most stacked sando, the Italian Cold Cut Sandwich (RMB68) is a quartet of thinly sliced mortadella, Soppressata, smoked Praga ham and pepperoni.
Next there's buttery provolone plus pickled giardiniera and peppers contrasting fresh lettuce and tomato.
A final lashing of red wine vinegar, olive oil, and a sprinkling of oregano add a true taste of Italian-American cuisine, all folded inside house-baked 82% hydration focaccia.
Zup Pizza Bar, 2/F, 291 Fumin Lu, by Donghu Lu 地址 富民路291号2楼,近东湖路.
There are numerous other sandwiches on our radar – and we've already got our eyes on a mix of banh mi, katsu sandos, grilled cheese, clubs, and more – we just need a mental and physical pause on sandwich consumption after averaging 3.4 sandwiches per day for the last five days (AGAIN!)
That's more than one sandwich per meal.
For a second week in a row.
Every meal.
For fourteen days.
So excuse us while we take a breather (and a spin class).
But get ready – it's coming...
Got a favorite sandwich spot you’d like to see featured in our next roundup? Feel free to share the deets by commenting below!
My name is Sophie Steiner, and welcome to my food-focused travel blog. This is a place to discover where and what to eat, drink, and do in Shanghai, Asia, and beyond. As an American based in Shanghai since 2015 as a food, beverage, travel, and lifestyle writer, I bring you the latest news on all things food and travel.
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