In the last two years Shanghai has moved deep into the double digits with venues touting themselves as 'French wine bars.' Emphasis on natural wines, organic wines, New World wines, Old World wines, low-intervention wines – you name it – it's become a thing. Who knew the baby born out of Shanghai's COVID era would be a wine bar obsession?

So what is it about all these venues that make them stand out? Is it synergy – that corporate buzz word that actually rings true when it comes to the continuity that flows between a curated wine list, expertly executed dishes and elegant design? Or is it more simple than that – luck, location, lineup of wines (or investors backing the venue)?

We compiled a roundup of recently opened wine bars that have done it right, converting us, along with the entire population of Shanghai, into Parisian wannabes.... or simply winos.

While this list mainly focuses on the newbies (wine bars that have sprouted up in the last two years), that is not to say we have forgotten about some of the 'oldies but goodies.' Places like Le Verre a Vin, Wine Universe, Le Vin, Vinisim and Épicerie & Caviste 62 Le Bec are definitely still worth a stop-in. 

But, let's be honest, everyone likes to focus on the hottest newcomers. So here’s the A-Z list, starting with Part I.

Bar À Vin

Bar à Vin opened quietly on Jiashan Lu in mid-January 2020, in a manner that mirrors its co-owner Jeffrey Yao’s demeanor: humble and unpretentious. Yet, in the time it’s been open, it has garnered quite the reputation amongst those in the wine industry and a consistent following of regulars that keep the two-story dining area full every day of the week. 

Family-style French comfort food is what you can expect to dine on at Bar à Vin, but, to keep it interesting, Jeffrey adds his own twist, like rounding out a plate with Thai or North African herbs and spices to add an unexpected yet welcomed surprise.

Similar to other French wine bistros, like SOiF and Le Verre à Vin, there is no fixed wine menu. Just peruse the ever-rotating wine bottle selection, stacked like books in an old library along the wooden shelves that cover the entire northern wall on the first floor.

Bottles are loosely arranged by region and style, but with dozens of varieties of wines from France, Spain, Italy, Australia, the US, New Zealand and China, you could spend countless hours looking through before ever finding a duplicate.

For people who find themselves crippled by choice (like us) Jeffrey makes himself always available to offer expert recommendations. Bottles generally range from RMB250 to RMB700.

Jeffrey also makes sure to stock wines from major wine regions like Burgundy and the Rhône Valley in France, or La Mancha in Spain, yet simultaneously curates a list sporting matchless bottles that even Shanghai’s most well-known sommeliers are surprised by. 

Although he leans towards organic, he doesn’t just follow the latest trends of natural wines. Jeffrey wants to make sure his wine selection is always evolving based on customers’ preferences, ensuring that it’s fitting for wine nerds and noobs alike. 

Blaz

Blaz helped breathe new life into the heritage villa on Donghu Lu that used to house the old elEFANTE. Simon Briens, co-founder of RAC, is in charge of all things wine, while Chris Zhu (formerly of Bird + Bitter) is pulling out the stops when it comes to food. The canteen and wine bar soft opened roughly a year ago, and it has been nearly impossible to get a table ever since. 

Vol au Vent (RMB128)

Known in the industry for his fusion techniques, Zhu combines Chinese ingredients with typically French dishes, making each bite that much more thought-provoking and engaging for his customers.

Our number one tip for Blaz: bring your stretchy pants – you will want to try it all. 

Moving onto the wine, Blaz offers five rotating daily options by the glass from around the world. On the day we visited, we sampled a tart Australian Riesling, a fruity French Malbec and a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand with notably higher acidity than expected.

Wines by the bottle span from RMB300-2,800, with most falling in the RMB500-700 range. 

A lively atmosphere is set by the funky upbeat playlist, friendly service and enthusiastic clientele. The expansive patio shared with fellow villa dwellers Cellar to Table has warm, dim mood lighting, ideal for afternoon sitting and sipping.

BISOU

BISOU, a casual yet sleek French restaurant, opened in Taikang Terrace this past April with a lot of warranted buzz (one of the partners is a well-known media mogul). The venue is split into two, BISOU and BISOU Rouge Cellar – a wine bar plus cellar – located across from each other. 

The food menu is designed by chef/partner Rembrandt Van Der Laan (previously of La Creperie), drawing on his experience working at both the Eiffel Tower restaurant and at Alain Ducasse’s 3-star Le Plaza Athénée.

Seven main courses and about as many appetizers and sides are scrawled in white letters on a chalkboard that is carried tableside for ordering convenience, making it easy to form a coherent meal, complimented by mostly Old World wines. 

Wines by the glass start at RMB48, with house wine options changing bi-monthly. Every week, roughly 10 wines are selected and featured as wines of the week, showcasing the extensive spread of more than 100 unique labels on offer.

If your wine knowledge is minimal, all of the waitstaff are well trained to make a suggestion for you based on your budget. Bottles fall within the range of RMB250-1,600, with the most common price coming in at roughly RMB300-400 each. 

Cellar to Table

Cellar to Table popped on the scene as yet another French wine bar in the heritage villa on Donghu Lu that used to house elEFANTE. Owners Philippe Huser and Karen Ma have a leg up, in that they also own Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen (currently closed for renovation, with the rest of Bund 22).

Cellar to Table is the everyday, cozy alternative to NAPA – like dining in your friend’s living room... if your friend happened to have a beyond impressive wine cellar and a critically-acclaimed chef on hand. 

From the warm lighting and homey fireplace to the friendly yet curt service, can't-pick-wrong menu and generous pours on arrival (starting at just RMB40, we might add), everything feels intimate, relaxed and comfortable at this classically French spot. 

The tome of a wine menu – featuring Old World unusual finds and New World imports alike – is not what you would expect to flip through while Biggie Smalls’ ‘Big Poppa’ plays across the venue, but it somehow keeps in line with the easy-going ‘just hanging at your friend’s place’ vibe.

Select a comfy spot next to the fireplace, curl up with your magnum of red, grab some dishes to share and prepare for the most lux ‘staying in night’ to date. 

In a world of ‘modern’ and ‘inventive’ twists, Cellar to Table’s menu stands out in that it’s not trying to reinvent the wheel. Straightforward and to the point, each element of the venue has its purpose without the unnecessary sparkles and frills that can so often detract from the whole.

Dosage

Cafe by day, Dosage's cozy space switches into more of a wine bar vibe after 6pm. Coffee drinks are available throughout the day and into the night, as is wine. And if you want a pastry in the evening or a cheese board in the morning, no one will tell you off. 

The wine lineup is also quite exclusive, which is getting harder for a venue to boast, given the explosion of inimitable wine bars around town over the last few years. We sampled a crisp yet juicy orange natural wine from Ningxia, the only venue in Shanghai to offer this specific, delicious variety.

Wines by the glass go for RMB58-88 and bottles generally range from RMB300-700. 

Whether you like sweets or not, you will finish your plate at Dosage – recipe creator and pastry queen Vanessa Miao has made sure of that. Aside from pastries, Dosage does dabble in savory snacks like cold cuts, cheese platters and avocado salad for those looking for something more substantial to pair with that bottle of rare wine. 

The always busy location and constant foot traffic keep the space bumping at all hours of the day, and with a stellar playlist and reliable WIFI, you will find us happily posted up here in the AM with a coffee (or a glass of wine, no judgment) for a few hours. 

Forage 

Positioning themselves as modern-day food and wine rebels without a cause, Forage owners Jill Jiang, Fan Gao and William Zhu (SOiF) want to be the anti-boring kickback at what they feel has taken over the wine industry in Shanghai.

Coming from a background of high-end kitchens (including Ultraviolet and Maison Lemolaise), the hodge-podge group of friends aim to create a funky wine bar that is unabashedly independent, with the main goal of doing something purely experimental – the kind of place they themselves would choose to hang.

The wine program is the focus, designed by William Zhu to show his attitude towards the nectar of the gods – clean on the palette, well-made and interesting in regards to winemaker, region or flavor. Expect to choose from 200 bottles at any given time, ranging in price from RMB400-800 per bottle and RMB70-110 per glass. 

Drinks aren’t limited to just wine. You’ll find trendy sour beers, honey mead and ciders, fitting into their loosely structured plan of ‘we don’t care what it is, as long as it’s exciting and tastes good.’

Chef Mario Fu (Grand Banks) leads the charge on food, combining his avant-garde style that stems from experience working in Michelin-star restaurants in Spain, Nordic Noma’s sister restaurant in Tokyo and his Chinese heritage for a mishmash of cuisines that are not defined by one particular style.

Instead, each dish is broken down into two main elements – a seasonal component and a preserved one. Because of this, the menu will change regularly as ingredients go in and out of season; that’s the meaning behind forage, always a constant push to look for inspiration.

Le Saleya Bar à Vin 

Bar à Vin took over La Saleya on Changle Lu in December, making it Le Saleya Bar à Vin. With more of a 'home-style' feel, the French food is rustic, country eats and classically simple, yet still paired with a stellar wine selection. 

The wine list, covering more than 320 vintages at any given time, is 90% French – a contrast to the original Bar à Vin's wine list that represents a global selection. But, with so much hailing from France, you can really discover one-off bottles and wines from small producers spanning a wide range of varietals that clock in from RMB250 to RMB700 per bottle.

There are around 10 reds, whites and sparkling available by the glass for RMB60-75.

After taking over the space, owner Jeffrey Yao completely overhauled the menu that now offers everyday French fare like duck rilletes, Burgundy-style snails, terrine, beef tartare and braised frog legs. 

A few summery bits and bobs – gazpacho with baby squid salad, tuna tartare and Hokkaido scallops in lobster sauce also grace the menu for the time being, best enjoyed in the quaint outdoor (yet covered from the elements) garden that is always full when the weather is nice. 

Mavis

Mavis rounds out the new French wine bars that hit Shanghai in 2020. This 30-seater 'neo bistro' features natural wines, French culinary techniques and a hip unpaved cement wall surfaced with graffiti by local artists.

Starting in August, the kitchen moved over to a fully set menu concept, where each diner can choose from a range of appetizers, starters, mains and desserts, with three courses for RMB398 and four courses for RMB428.

The major upside to the set menu is that diners at the same table don’t need to order the same set, meaning you can share with others at your table to taste a wider variety of dishes than before.

The by the glass wine menu changes monthly, with 80% of the wines coming from France and the rest being predominantly Italian and Spanish. Although the owner is Australian, you’ll be lucky to find a cheeky Aussie or Kiwi wine on the shelves, hidden near the back.

The wine classification system differs from the norm – instead of the typical categorization, with wines broken down by region or kind, the wine room at Mavis is separated into Classic (wines that are true to their varietal), Funky (small vineyard, higher acidity or funky tasting notes) and Easy (wines that can be enjoyed by anyone at any time with any food pairing). 

While most direct competitors focus on the Funky category, Mavis puts a strong emphasis on traditional wines to pair with some of their more characteristically French dishes. That being said, they don’t actively sport any big-name wine brands; exclusive is still the key to a well curated and interesting list.

Ottimo

Only curiosity would bring one to Surpass Court on Yongjia Lu, a somewhat ‘cursed’ area where many a restaurant has gone to die. But, in late December, co-owner of the auspiciously renao SOiF, Li Ze, decided to put an end to that streak by opening Ottimo. 

The interior’s most prominent feature is its walk-in wine closet, presenting mostly Old World wines – many from Burgundy or Bordeaux, with a few Super Tuscans sprinkled in. Like SOiF, there is no wine list and the selection is constantly changing.

Unlike SOiF, the classic wines found here are geared towards the older, more developed palate – very few of those funky natural wines adorn these shelves. The sake selection is smaller yet equally well-curated. 

Bottles range from RMB400-1,500 for the most part, and wines by the glass, which rotate monthly, fall between RMB65-95. 

The food is mainly Italian braided together with French cuisine, seasonal Asian ingredients and a bias for assertive flavors. Approachable and somewhat playful, the menu is not intimidating – be it a first date or a 101st date, selections are straightforward. 

Like its sister restaurant SOiF, Ottimo is humming with lively energy. The strategized flow of plates whizzing past, wine pouring into glasses and laughter emanating from various corners of the space is a choreographed dance, rather than a chaotic shuffle.

Pudao Wines

The second outpost of Pudao Wines opened alongside the floodgates of Shankang Li; there was nothing, then two months later, there was everything – and loads of people.

Just like their original location at Ferguson Lane that sees the alleys, rooftops and terraces brimming with people at all hours, Pudao in Jing'an is there for any and all wine needs at every hour. 

Image courtesy of Pudao Wines

Different from other wine bars on this list, Pudao focuses only on said wine. They figure there are enough food spots nearby to fit your fancy, so they don't feel the need to furnish a menu; they allow you to bring in whatever you want.

If your night involves crushing Bubba's BBQ ribs or an entire Homeslice pizza while simultaneously taking down a bottle or two, "be our guest," is Pudao's attitude. 

Image courtesy of Pudao Wines

The space is divided into three sections, each lined floor to ceiling with bottles of wine and filled with ample seating at all heights. That's because Pudao in Shangkang Li offers one of the largest – if not the largest – wine selection in Shanghai, with over 1,200 vintages at mid-to-high range retail prices. 

Image courtesy of Pudao Wines

There's the main display floor, the bar that offers nearly thirty bottles by the glass at any given day and the tasting room for private events or – even better – for impressing a date.

The second the weather is nice, counter seating nearly doubles as sippers prefer to lounge both inside and outside the venue, glass in hand. 

Rōzo

Rōzo is a chic wine bar with a tight menu of Latin-inspired plates accented by a creative Asian touch. The wine cellar in the back offers just over 100 distinct vintages, exhibited on shelves like rare books in the most treasured kind of library. The only thing missing is a rolling ladder to reach those tippity top ledges. 

The décor is dim, sleek and sexy. Or is that just the wispy red flames undulating from the central strip of the 16-seater main dining table? Something about fire in unexpected places seems equal parts dangerous and sultry. Bonus points if it reflects off illuminated wine glasses. 

There is no set focus of the wine program. “Whatever we try and like, we stock. Simple as that,” offers operating partner Matthieu Thomas (Must Grill, Blanche, Dr. Wine, Raw Eatery), in between sips of a punchy Cabernet from Loire Valley.  

The menu is tight – 10 dishes plus meat and cheese platters, and the plan is only to add a handful more in the coming months. Like the wine program, the food, designed by consulting chef Carlos Sotomayor (Blue Plate Consulting), is direct and to the point. 

Rōzo also offers The Voyage (RMB150), a welcoming introductory ‘course’ into the world of wine and food pairing, something to spark conversation between guests, no matter the extent of their previous wine knowledge.

To showcase idiosyncratic wines, every month will see a rotating selection of three glasses paired with three mini tartines. 

SOiF

A pocket-sized natural wine bar with an eclectic wine selection, European fusion nibbles and a vibe that screams it's time to drink, SOiF is busy every hour of the night. The collaboration between Li Ze, Francois Séguin and William Zhu makes this biodynamic and organic wine bar a success. 

Freddy Raoult put together the food menu, which is anything but an afterthought. Although tight in size, each dish is memorable, well thought out and perfect for wine pairing – the food does not come second to the wine in this case. 

The wine list is eclectic, funky and always changing, a major inspiration for the natural wine movement in Shanghai. Plus, the glass cellar display room feels like the adult version of Willy Wonka. If we lick the rafters do they taste more like Pinot or Chardonnay?

Wines by the glass go for RMB68-88 with bottles spanning mainly RMB400-850. 

A popular hangout amongst the industry crowd, it's often hard to get a seat, but well worth the effort as every time we've gone, it's been exactly what we are looking for.

theWarehouse

Coming at you from Li Ze (Ottimo, SOiF), theWarehouse is another novel concept recently added to the team’s growing empire of locations. Located on Yongjia Lu, just below Ottimo in Surpass Court, this spot is actually a two-for-one, split across unit 217 and 312, for a distinctive dine and sip experience in both. 

That said, theWarehouse is not necessarily a restaurant. In fact, as the name suggests, it’s a glorified warehouse. Think Beer Lady, but for wine and centrally located – hundreds of wine labels in a ‘factory décor’ retail setting, with charcuterie and nibbles for those choosing to drink-in rather than take away.

It’s a bottle shop with a wine bar experience. 

The main business, however, is delivery. All wines can be ordered on Elema, Meituan and the like, plus their own wine delivery platform, powered through Youzan.

Bottles generally go for RMB350-800, with a strong focus on Burgundy wines. You’ll find a few New World wines, some natural wines and even a cheeky bottle of sake or two sprinkled throughout.  

The food menu, curated by chef Freddy Raolt (The Nest, SOiF), is tight and modest, centering fully around – you guessed it – wine pairing. Think cheese, meat, rillete and other nibbles that make for ideal picnic fare.

So which is the best? Well, that's a complicated answer. Each fits its own unique niche. There are options that are all about the wine, and others that are better for food.

Some push a high-end date night vibe, while others are ideal for casual weekday sipping. A few on the list we opt for pre-dinner, yet a handful we tend to visit more for a nightcap.

We're just here to present the info – you pick your poison.