Author's Note: La Brise 523 has closed since the original date of this article's publication.

The Place

Chef Conrad Van Den Heever (previously of Highline, Dentree, The Nest, Bloom, Anchor & Clover Club) has opened his very own restaurant, La Brise 523 in Sinan Mansions.

Image courtesy of La Brise 523

The concept is a firepit-roasted proteins bistro with a modern Southeast Asian flavor-leaning menu. The kitchen sports its own firepit, where anything that can be is roasted over open woodfire flames, tendrils of curling smoke adding a campfire aroma to the entire vicinity.

The front area offers an all-day snacking and sipping bar, showcasing a roster of global wines – including an array from Chef Conrad’s home country of South Africa – an impressive whiskey list, and lineup of both classic and signature cocktails.

But the real kicker comes when the 'artsy hipster designed' main dining room opens daily at 5pm, revealing two backsplash wall art murals by a local graffiti artist, as well as displays of trendy art collector’s items and statues.

The Food 

Chef Conrad’s cooking captures the places his experiences have led him thus far – at once nostalgic and inventive, and constantly refining. Expect big flavors that tie together ingredients from around the globe. 

Begin with the Fire Roasted Sourdough (RMB48), the star of which is – surprisingly – the side of butter. 

“In South Africa, I used to churn butter on my grandparents farm,” Chef Conrad says of the inspiration behind this plate.

Milk powder is caramelized for a deeper sweetness, like dulce de leche, then blitzed into an unctuous pâté consistency that spreads across the fire-kissed sourdough like foie gras. 

The quenelle is adorned with crushed pistachios, Guinness chocolate cake crumble, and coffee oil – the latter pair priming the palate for the fire-forward-themed menu to come. 

Getting your daily serving of six has never been easier than with the Eat Your Greens (RMB68), a hefty portion of charred asparagus spears plated above an umami bomb of fermented yellow bean beurre blanc.

A crispy red miso bread crumble is the lynchpin, tying the components together through textural crunch and a toasty, savory-sweet flavor that reinforces the bold sauce. 

Sea Urchin Tagliatelle (RMB188)

A spin on the customary Baja Cali fish taco, the Tempura Soft Shell Crab Tacos (RMB88/2) see lace-like tempura-coated Vietnamese crabs in place of fish, with acidic purple cabbage slaw, jalapeños, lime and a kimchi aioli – for an added kick of fermented fiery funk – all atop a grilled flour tortilla. 

Mushrooms season is in full swing, a fact that’s evident in the Smoked M5 Wagyu Brisket Risotto (RMB128), a mushroom lover’s fantasy.

A plethora of Yunnan mushrooms are cooked into the expertly al dente risotto, a sweet and sticky porcini jam adding depth to the bite when coupled with the mushroom’s earthy undertones. 

Thick slabs of 48-hour Australian braised brisket are simultaneously smoked and roasted over lychee wood and bamboo charcoal, resulting in a highly aromatic bark – the charred crust that forms on the outside of the meat from the caramelized sugar, rendered fat and smoke that cooks on the surface, locking in all of its juices.

The beef chunks are effortlessly tender, falling apart with the mere touch of a fork, the ribbons of fat melting on the tongue. 

Girthy batons of Fire Pit Roasted Iberian Pork Ribs (RMB228/500 grams) are the poster child for meat that just shirks away from the bone with only the slightest tug.

Ruffly pleats of interlaced meat and fat drip with a sticky, molasses-like BBQ sauce – one that lingers long after the morsel has been swallowed. 

Springy BBQ Maitake Mushrooms (RMB48) are charred on the grill, the edges scorched and pleasantly crispy, while the meaty center absorbs the fire’s smoke like a steak.

Bright pops of pickled shimeji mushrooms and homemade matsutake mushroom vinegar add nuanced salinity and tartness.

A seasonal special, the Grilled Catch of the Day (RMB198) luckily featured snapper on the day of our visit, a plump filet that flakes off in buttery hunks, bathed in a laksa-inspired sauce of pungent tamarind, ginger and lemongrass.

The fish itself is first seasoned with lemon salt – made from dehydrated three-month salt-cured lemons – before being thrown on the grill, dribbled in a fermented gooseberry glaze. 

La Brise 523 also offers an already coveted brunch menu – including Benedicts (RMB68-88) topped with soft shell crab; smoked salmon and arctic crab cake; culatello and avocado; or grilled portobello.

There are also Brunch Sandwiches (RM58-88), Pancakes (RMB58), Nutella French Toast (RMB68), Bacon Carbonara (RMB88) and Steaks (RMB298-888).

Brunch isn’t brunch in Shanghai without a burger, and Chef Conrad delivers with the Burgers with Pickles Matter (RMB88).

A Wagyu beef patty is stacked tall with bacon, smoked cheddar, pickles, a fried egg, and a crispy, oversized onion ring, all nestled between two plush brioche buns.

The chili aioli slathered across the top mingles with the runny egg yolk, resulting in a smarmy, sloppy, mess of a burger in the most delectable of ways. 

It’s worth noting that the brunch prices are reasonable across the board – you don’t have to dole out all that hard-earned (smoked) cheddar to enjoy a meal here – making La Brise 523 a viable daily option.

The Reuben Sandwich You Won’t Forget (RMB88) earns its name with chunky slices of 48-hour braised M7 Wagyu chuck at the foreground, that have been slowly smoked over lychee wood and bamboo charcoal, resulting in a 'Reuben-meets-steak sandwich' of sorts – a detail we're definitely not mad about.  

A shmear of basil mustard is found on the bottom slice of toasted sourdough, while a dollop of homemade thousand island is – you guessed it – on the top, coupled with pickled onions, fermented purple sauerkraut, gooey Emmental cheese, and house pickles. 

And if you happen to be stopping by in the afternoon (which we highly suggest you do), Head Pastry Chef Raina Shan has put together a slew of afternoon tea desserts (also available during dinner) that could put any other bakery in the neighborhood to shame. 

From the New York-style Classic Cheesecake (RMB48), that is idyllically dense, draped in homemade mixed berry jam and vanilla cream…

... to the tiered Rum Chestnut Cake (RMB48) – alternating stratum of airy chiffon and rum mousse studded with rum-soaked raisins, piped on top with chestnut cream (to resemble a classic Mont Blanc) and a candied chestnut…

... to the La Brise 523 Tiramisu (RMB58) – classic in every sense of the meaning, with Kahlua coffee syrup-soaked ladyfinger sponge and whipped mascarpone mousse.

It really should be mandatory to order dessert here.  

Chef’s Selection of Daily Ice Creams (RMB28/scoop)

Drinks span Classic Cocktails (RMB68-88) to more inventive Signatures (RMB78-88), like the Scarlett Sour (RMB88) – a purple ruby-hued sour sipper, its color owed to the combination of beetroot and raspberry with a creamy aquafaba topper...

... and the Peanut & Sesame (RMB78) – sesame fat washed rye with clarified peanut butter and brown sugar, reminiscent of a nutty old fashioned. 

Golden Age (RMB88)

The Vibe 

The entire space seats 40, with views over the Sinan Mansions square (or through a window that peers into the kitchen), plus outdoor seating that perimeters half the venue and is dog-friendly.

Approachable and trendy, the restaurant feels like a place you want to hang out, regardless of time of day or day of week. 

And, while this is majorly owed to the food and drink, the eclectic music selection deserves its fair share shoutout; a lineup of bangers from the ‘80s to aughts, you’ll find yourself singing (and probably dancing) along to these nostalgia-inducing tunes throughout the meal – an atmosphere we didn’t want to part from. 

Price: RMB250-500
Who’s Going: Chef Conrad Van Den Heever groupies, torched protein aficionados, Sinan Mansion passers-by
Good For: Grilled meat consumption, brunch catch-ups, dog-friendly dining

La Brise 523,  #4-6, 523 Fuxing Lu, by Sinan Lu 复兴路523弄4-6号, 近思南路.